Techniques
How to make a pan sauce
The short answer: after cooking meat, pour off most of the fat, deglaze the brown bits in the pan with about 120ml of wine or stock, reduce it by half, then take the pan off the heat and whisk in 20 to 30g of cold butter. It takes about five minutes and serves two. It is the best reason to cook in a stainless steel pan.
Why it works: the fond
When you sear a steak, chop or chicken thigh in a stainless steel pan, browned juices stick to the base. The French call this the fond, the foundation, and it is concentrated flavour from the Maillard reaction. A non-stick pan does not let it form; stainless steel does. Liquid dissolves it, reduction concentrates it, and butter turns it into something glossy that coats the back of a spoon.
One warning sign: the fond should be brown, not black. If it has burnt, the sauce will be bitter, so wipe the pan and start again with stock and butter.
The basic method, for two
Cook the meat and move it to a warm plate to rest. Keep the juices that collect on the plate.
Pour off the fat, leaving about a teaspoon in the pan.
Add aromatics on a medium heat: 1 finely chopped shallot, cooked for 1 minute until soft, then a crushed garlic clove or a sprig of thyme for 20 seconds.
Deglaze: pour in 120ml of wine, or 60ml of wine and 60ml of stock. It will hiss. Scrape the base with a wooden spatula until all the brown bits dissolve.
Reduce at a lively simmer until roughly half the liquid has gone, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the resting juices from the plate.
Mount with butter: take the pan off the heat, add 20 to 30g of cold butter in cubes, and swirl or whisk until it melts into a glossy sauce. Off the heat matters; if it boils, the butter splits.
Season with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar if it needs lifting. Spoon over the meat.
Ratios and timings at a glance
| Stage | For 2 | For 4 | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fat left in pan | 1 tsp | 2 tsp | - |
| Shallot | 1 | 2 | 1 to 2 min |
| Wine or stock | 120ml | 240ml | Reduce by half, 2 to 4 min |
| Cold butter | 20 to 30g | 40 to 60g | Off the heat, 30 sec |
For four, use a 28cm or 30cm pan so the liquid reduces in good time.
Three variations worth knowing
Peppercorn sauce, for steak. Crush 1 tablespoon of black peppercorns coarsely. Soften a shallot, add the pepper for 20 seconds, deglaze with 2 tablespoons of brandy (off the heat, then back on), add 100ml of beef stock and reduce by half, then stir in 75ml of double cream and simmer for a minute until it coats a spoon. Skip the butter.
Mustard cream, for pork or chicken. Deglaze with 80ml of white wine or cider and reduce by half. Add 100ml of double cream and 1 heaped teaspoon of Dijon mustard, simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, finish with chopped tarragon or parsley.
Red wine, for steak or duck. Soften a shallot, deglaze with 120ml of red wine and reduce to about 2 tablespoons, add 100ml of beef stock and reduce by half again, then whisk in 30g of cold butter off the heat. A teaspoon of redcurrant jelly rounds it out with duck.
The right pan
Pan sauces need a pan that builds a fond without burning it, which means stainless steel with even heat. The Season Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Frying Pan, £50 to £75, is stainless steel bonded around an aluminium core that runs up the sides, so heat spreads evenly and nothing catches at the edges. 18/10 stainless inside means wine and lemon are no trouble. It comes in 22cm, 26cm, 28cm and 30cm, is oven safe to 240°C, works on all hobs including induction and has a 10 year warranty.
Cook something first
Start with how to cook steak in a stainless steel pan or crispy chicken thighs in a stainless steel pan. If you prefer to finish meat in the oven, can stainless steel pans go in the oven? explains how, and the sauce still gets made on the hob afterwards. For a different kind of sauce entirely, see how to make béchamel sauce.
Questions people ask
Can I make a pan sauce without wine? Yes. Use stock, cider, or water with a splash of vinegar. Stock gives the most body.
Why did my sauce go greasy? The butter got too hot and split, or too much fat was left in the pan. Take the pan off the heat before adding butter.
Can I make a pan sauce in a non-stick pan? You can, but there is little fond to work with, so it tastes thinner. Stainless steel gives the most flavour.
How thick should a pan sauce be? Just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. It is a glaze, not a gravy.
Do I need to rest the meat first? Yes, and the sauce takes about as long as the resting does, so they finish together.
Cook it with
Cook like it matters.
From the cooks at Season, a London cookshop since 2005.